Caldo Verde -green soup take three

I have meddled with a national dish

Today I have made the national dish of Portugal - Caldo Verde.How bold was I? Apparently every Portuguese mother´s Caldo Verde is defended by her offspring.Like a pirate I entered someone else's territory and was seen to be taking the spoils. Having made this dish beloved by every Portuguese family, I will now proudly foray into the dispute.I confess I broke with tradition and put my own interpretation on the classic recipe.Caldo Verde literally translates as "hot and green" in Portuguese, and it is the finely shredded greens that traditionally give the dish its colour.Markets and supermarkets in Portugal are abundant with shreeded greens, either sold loose by weight or bagged up and ready to plonk into your Caldo Verde.You can substitute any greens as long as they are in the cruciferous family, by which I mean any brassica,so even the brussel sprout would qualify.I destroyed the entire Caldo Verde constitution in one pan of soup.I had my reasons. In these times of austerity and having recently learnt an important lesson from the broadcasting of Nigel Slater, I now save and find a use for every particle of the particular vegetable I am paring.Today I was cooking cauliflower and having discarded all the leaves I was not allowed, under the "Slater Regime", to waste the residue.Caldo Verde was speaking to me and cauliflower is in the cruciferous family.Yeahh  I could use my leaves, but with further internet consultation, even better news, the Goan caldo verde (Goa ka gobhi soup) is made with cauliflower, florets and all.I did not want to use the florets but it got me thinking that the cauliflower leaves would give it a good colour and a subtle and sweeter flavour.I very often include the leaves and stalks when I make a cauliflower cheese,so it should work.It certainly did.The classic recipe and custom dictates that the soup be served with just one slice of chouriço.I don´t think every mother´s son would complain about the fact that I put 3 slices in each bowl.Not only that, I fried the Chouriço in garlic and sherry vinegar and included these tasty  pan juices in my soup.I sautéed the onion and garlic in my home infused piri piri oil, which is not in the original recipe but gave the soup an incredible deep comforting warmth.The tang of the sherry and the fat from the Chouriço is what made this soup for me.Regardless of what I did to it, I now totally understand why this dish is the beloved national dish.It is simply delicious.

My tribute Caldo Verde

serves 4
3 tablespoons piri piri infused olive oil
1 medium brown onion,chopped
250g red potatoes,peeled and diced
1 large garlic clove,minced
2 cups home made chicken stock
500g(2 cups)cauliflower leaves,stalks and fibous veins removed
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
Flor de sal and freshly ground pepper
12 medium slices dry cured Chouriço or linguica

Heat the oil in a large pan over a medium heat.Add the onion and sautée,stirring frequently,until golden (about 10 minutes).Introduce the potatoes and cook stirring often until they start to stick to the bottom of the pan (about 7 minutes)Add the garlic and cokk for a further minute.Pour in the chicken stock and 1.5 cups of water.Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to low,cover and simmer until the potatoes are tender and soft ( 20 -25 minutes).Meanwhile bundle the leaves up and roll them into tight cigar shapes and cut them crosswise into fine shreds.Repeat till all the greens are shredded.
Purée the soup in a hand blender or liquefy in batches in a food processor.Return the soup to the pan and bring back to the boil.Turn the heat to low,stir in the greens, and simmer uncovered until just tender ( about 10 minutes).season well with Flor de sal and pepper.
Meanwhile heat adash of olive oil in a small frying pan and cook the chouriço until the fats start running.Toss in the sherry vinegar  a crushed garlic clove and continue cooking until the chouriço startsto curl up at the edges.transfer the Chouriço and its pan juices to the pan of soup and stir well to mix.
Ladle the soup into bowls with 3 slices of chouriço in each.

Classic Caldo verde
Place the potatoes,onion,cauliflower,garlic and 6 cups water in a large saucepan and bring to the boil over a high heat.Reduce the heat to medium-low,cover and simmer until all the vegetables are soft,about 30 minutes. Purée the soup. Use only 4 slices of Chouriço and instead of browning them in the pan add them to the soup at the same time as the greens.Ladle the soup into bowls with one slice of Chouriço in each.Drizzle with some good Portugueseextra-virgin olive oil.

Goan Caldo verde (Goa ka Ghobi soup)
makes 4 to 6 servings
500g russet potatoes,or any,peeled and diced
1 medium onion coarsely chopped
2 cups cauliflower florets (from about 500g head)
1 large clove garlic.peeled and chopped
7 to 8 cups water
2 soup spoons olive oil
2 cups finely shredded cauliflower leaves or any other greens
1 teaspoon For de sal,or to taste

Place the potatoes,onion,cauliflower,garlic and 6 cups water in a large saucepan and bring to the boil over a high heat.Reduce the heat to medium-low,cover and simmer until all the vegetables are soft,about 30 minutes.
Let the vegetables cool,then purée in a food processor in batches or with a hand blender.Return to the saucepan.Add the remaining water,olive oil,cauliflower leaves,and salt.Cover and simmer over a medium heat,stirring as necessary,until the greens are tender,about 20 minutes.Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with chouriço slices and serve.

Have yourself a sweet Christmas

Lightly baked Spanish marzipan shapes

Christmas isn´t christmas without something Moorish,in this case marzipan. Some people claims it “tastes like medicine,” and fail to see marzipan’s charms but I am certainly not one of these misguided souls.My mother loved marzipan, and not those little food dye brushed animals and fruits; she did not wish to eat miniature sculptures,just boxes of marzipan swaddled in bittersweet chocolate.I´m with you all the way mother. Marzipan sweets descend from a centuries' old tradition, the combination of almonds and sugar. The resulting 'dough' is quite pliable, and confectioners use this attribute to create whimsical figures and fruit.Every nation lays claim to the invention of marzipan,but there is a reason to believe that there is a clear Arabic influence. There are references in The Book of One Thousand and One Nights of an almond paste eaten during Ramadan and as an aphrodisiac.It is almost certain that the recipe came via the Middle East and then to Europe through Al-Andalus. ( modern day Andalucia).Whether it is true or not, my favourite marzipan story is this one from Spain.At the battle of Navas de Tolosa in the year 1212 it is said that the nuns of the San Clemente convent took care of the wounded soldiers. According to tradition, they ground up their stores of almonds in mortars and pestles, and then kneaded them together with sugar to create emergency rations. This type of bread (pan) produced with a pestle (maza) is supposed to have given rise to the name mazapán in Spanish - marzipan in English.Kneady grinding nuns armed with pestles and mortars.I love it.

Home made marzipan is so easy......
175g ground almonds
175g icing sugar plus extra for dusting
1 egg

Sift the ground almond and icing sugar into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and drop in the egg. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, stir until the egg is incorporated into the almond mix.
Sprinkle a little icing sugar on to a clean work surface, turn the mixture out and then knead gently until it comes together in a smooth-ish dough. If the dough is sticky, add a bit more icing sugar.
Store in the fridge in an air-tight container or freeze until needed.

But how long does homemade marzipan keep? Although homemade marzipan contains raw eggs, the amount of sugar and lack of moisture prevents bacteria growing when left at room temperature. If you want to make marzipan before you are ready to cover your cake or make marzipan figures, then wrap it well in cling film and keep in a fridge for up to a week - as wrapped in a ball it will still contain a little moisture. As it contains raw eggs it shouldn't be given to anyone in an at-risk group, including pregnant women, the elderly, the unwell and the very young. You can make a cooked marzipan, which carries no risks. It is a little softer, and harder to work with, but a good substitute if you are at all worried. 

Doces Finos. Photo courtesy of Salt of Portugal

In Portugal, where the confection has been made by nuns since olden times,traditional marzipan (maçapão) fruit-shaped sweets made in (EL al-gharb) the Algarve are called Morgadinhos,Dom Rodrigos and doces finos.

Christmas isn´t christmas without brightly foiled wrapped Dom Rodrigos

Cheese and onion deja vu

Certain combinations of ingredients are just made for one another.For me

cheese and onion is one of them.Their pairing is something intrinsically correct.A marriage that sets off on the right foot and is there for the long haul.These two, between them, bring flavours and textures to a partnership that defies meddling.Egg and chips, steak and frites,peas and mint,sausage and mash,strawberries and cream.These are all matches that can not be divorced from each other, a bit on the side along the way perhaps, but like the good old cheese and onion you are guaranteed a more than happy meal in their company. I have recently experienced a kind of gastronomic deja vu. When we had a museum cafe in London back in 1998 our menu used to feature a "taleggio and onion tart."We had an extremely handsome Portuguese waiter then working for us.Our dear Joao had customer skills all of his own making.One day this scenario took place between waiter and single lady who lunched.

Lady who lunched  "I see you have a taleggio and onion tart, what is taleggio?"
Waiter                     "Cheese"
Lady who lunched   "what kind of cheese is it?"
Waiter                     "Soft"
Lady who lunched   "where is it from ?"
Waiter                     "Italy" 
Lady who lunched   "what part of Italy ?" 
Waiter (thinking)      "mountains" 

This dish also became a favourite midweek supper of the Thespian and myself.Until yesterday I had not cooked it for six years.The reason being the unavailability of this cheese in the Algarve.I miss having those Italian delis within easy reach,where you could buy this cheese, and then rush home with your prize and rustle up a simple but oh so tasty tart within the hour.However, having put my thinking cap on, I have found  an almost perfect match here in Portugal-DOP cheese from Serra de Estrela or Serra (Beiras)

Made in the mountains of the beautiful Serra da Estrela (“Star Mountains"and also a national park), this traditional washed rind and  smear-ripened Portuguese cheese is almost indentical in character and taste to its Italian counterpart The cheese has a strong aroma, but its flavour is comparatively mild with an unusual fruity tang. Its crust is thin. 

As per tradition of both countries the Portuguese cheese is also set to mature on wooden shelves in chambers,and sometimes in caves It is described as the "king of Portuguese cheeses". 

The Bordaleira ewes thrive on a diet of wild herbs, scrub, gorse blossoms and brambles, producing thick, luscious, aromatic milk. Serra da Estrela is handmade in small batches using wild thistle (Cardoon) (Cynara cardunculus) to coagulate the milk. The curds are broken by hand instead of cut. It takes an average of three hours to make one cheese and only two or three are made per day. After the wheel is salted it is then wrapped in cloth and aged.It is available in two stages of ripeness that correspond to two kinds of texture: "Amanteigado" (like butter) - this is when Queijo Serra da Estrela is younger, the rind is sticky and pungent and the interior is so creamy that it is almost spoonable; "Curado" (cured) - as it ages, the rind becomes harder and smoother with the interior becoming denser and sliceable. Either way, this is an incredible Portuguese treasure

Tarte Queijo Serra da Estrela e cebolas 

Serve 3 as a main course or light lunch

2 large Spanish onions 
50g butter
3 tbsps olive oil
375g ready rolled puff pastry
2 tbsps thyme leaves
100g Queijo Serra da Estrela
1 tbsp freshly grated parmesan 
beaten egg to glaze the pastry 

Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7
Peel and slice the onions. In a heavy-based pan cook them very slowly in the butter and olive oil over a very low heat.After about half an hour they should be soft and translucent.Do not let them brown.Roll out the pastry to 40 x 25cm.Cut three 14cm rounds.A saucer will be a perfect template.Within each circle score a smaller one,about2cms in from the edge.Be careful not to cut all the way through.Lay them on a baking tray.
Season the cooked onion with salt,peppr and the thyme, then divide the the mixture between the inner circles of the pastry.Take care not to spill any over the edges.Thinly slice the cheese and tuck it into the onions.Brush the pastry with the beaten egg and scatter over the grated parmesan.Bake in the oven for 15 minutes or until the pastry is golden and the cheese has started to melt.Serve immediately.

Molho Bombeiros

Bombeiro means fireman in Portuguese, and you will definitely  need a fireman to put out the fire in your mouth after you eat this!For anyone who does not live in the East Algarve you may or may not be aware that this summer, at the end of July, we suffered horrendous and frightening bush fires which raged for four days.

The fires started on the afternoon of Wednesday 18 July.Over 100 people and 60 families in the East Algarve were directly affected by the fires that spread over more than 20,000 hectares around Tavira and São Brás de Alportel,this  led to the largest fire fighting operation in the history of Portugal.More than 1,000 people on the ground, 200 vehicles and 13 aircraft,including auxiliaries brought in from Spain fought the fire at its peak.

The fires were not under control until four days later, having destroyed land and property totalling a massive €24 million in Tavira and São Bras de Alportel.The courage and stamina of the fire fighting force,including many volunteers, was a test of endurance and we should thank them.Inspired by a fiery mexican concoction I have created a sauce dedicated to all those involved in this operation.This sauce is delicious smothered on pizzas, as a rouille in soups and stews, or anything that needs a little kick! for example try it for igniting the fuse on some lightly seasoned roasted pork (and for that matter make extra to use in place of mayo in sandwiches)

Molho Bombeiro (Firemans sauce)

1 cup green chilllis (stems removed)

2 roma tomatoes

1/4 red onion

2 dried chipotle chiles 
2 medium red chillis (malaguetas)

2 teaspoons red mojo picante sauce

2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon cumin powder

3 cups water

1 tablespoon oil

Place all of the ingredients except for the oil in a large sauce pan. Bring to a boil and cook uncovered for 15 minutes.

Pour the ingredients in a blender and blend on high for 5 minutes or when all of the chiles are completely pureed.

Heat the oil on medium heat in the sauce pan you were using. Pour the chile back into the sauce pan and cook stirring occasionally for 10 minutes.

• 2 garlic cloves
• 2 bay leaves
• 3 tablespoons port (ruby or tawny)
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste
• 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-size chunks (about 1-inch dice)
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
• 1/2 cup finely diced onion

Directions

Want it? Click it.

• 1. Grind the garlic and bay leaves together in the work bowl of a hand blender or mini chopper. (Alternatively, chop the garlic by hand and finely crumble the bay leaves and combine.) Add the port, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the vinegar, paprika, and salt and pulse until well combined.
• 2. Pour the mixture over the chicken, cover, and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.
• 3. Just before cooking, chop enough cilantro to make 1/2 cup. Scatter the cilantro on a serving plate.
• 4. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil on medium-high heat in a wok or large skillet. With a slotted spoon, scoop the chicken pieces out of the marinade and into the hot oil, arranging the chicken in a single layer and discarding the marinade. Cook until browned on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes, then stir-fry until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes more. Scoop the chicken out of the pan, leaving any excess oil behind, and place the chicken on the cilantro.
• 5. Add the onion to the oil in the hot pan, return it to medium-high heat, and cook, stirring, until the onion is browned at the edges, about 2 minutes. Scoop the onion out of the oil and strew it over the chicken.
• 6. Serve the plate of chicken bites hot or at room temperature, sprinkled with a touch of salt and with cocktail picks or toothpicks for handling.

Get more deliciousness at Port and Paprika Chicken Bites Recipe | Leite's Culinaria

O ingrediente secreto - Flor de sal fumada

I am addicted to salt. That´s a blessing because everywhere I look I see salt,sea salt in one form or another. We are surrounded by salt pans,samples in the house,boxes on display for our guests to purchase, a larder ful of salt,and for the past few days our kitchen has been filled with the wonderful aroma of smoked vanilla salt emanating from a sample bag that had been dropped off for test recipes and photography. Our kitchen is like a huge salt cellar, and talking of salt sellers, Salmarim have just launched,this week, their new range of

3 smoked salts.( available from selected outlets only in Portugal) Following the success of my Flor de sal caramel brownies  the pressure was on to come up with another recipe to celebrate the launch of Algarvian smoked salt.

By smoking salt, you can give food a smoky flavor without doing any actual smoking. It’s literally pure smoke in a jar.

Smoked salt has long been a favourite seasoning, dating back to the days when Vikings infused sea salt crystals with the smoke from aromatic wood fires. Continuing this proud culinary tradition,Salmarim smoked Flor de Sal is extremely versatile, adding rich, smoky flavours to a wide variety of foods.For instance, sea salt smoked in a fish smoker can season scrambled eggs and give it the flavour of smoked salmon without the physical presence of any salmon.A popular eat combo however is salt and chocolate.

Vanilla smoked Flor de sal, chocolate nib

and pistachio cookies

This recipe adapted from several cookie recipes

makes about 18 medium sized cookies

1/2 cup (1 stick)  unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon mild smoked Flor de sal

1 1/2 cups dark chocolate chips

1 cup shelled pistachios, coarsely chopped

smoked vanilla salt for topping

Place rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat oven to 150C/300 F.  Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.

In a food processor or  mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter and two sugars together until pale and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add the egg and beat again for about 1 minute.  Add vanilla extract and beat to incorporate.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour baking soda, and salt. Add this mixture all at once to the butter mixture.  Beat on low speed until just incorporated. Finally mix in the chocolate chips and nuts.

Dollop or scoop cookie dough in spoonfuls onto prepared baking tins.  Leave about 2 inches of room between each cookie.  Sprinkle generously with smoked vanilla sea salt.

Bake cookies for 18 minutes, or until just golden brown.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the pan for 5 minutes before removing to a wire rack to cool completely. Cookies will keep, well wrapped at room temperature for up to 4 days… as if

Scones, bolos ou torradas, vamos bebê-lo?

Who can resist a scone at Casa Rosada

A piping hot pot of tea with scones and cakes and an agreeable ambience in which to consume it. Quem resiste a uma boa casa de chá?  Who can resist a good tea house?
The cold and rainy weather is already making its presence felt here in Portugal,but for warmth and comfort there is nothing better than being in a welcoming place, with a fire burning nearby and a hot drink to warm the body and soul.That comforting beverage called afternoon tea to be more precise.This time last year I was encouraging a resurgence of interest in old fashioned tea rooms and scones.
Reading between the lines of recent press my prayers have been answered.In the capital (Lisboa)there is suddenly a fashion for the partaking of afternoon tea, and even more amazing in the present economic climate,its population is becoming filled with a desire to know the best tea houses in its capital.
Scones, muffins or toast and cakes anyone,can we drink to that?
For those who are not lucky enough to reside there or to be tippy toe-ing out Christmas shopping on the beautiful calçadas of downtown Lisbon,button up your double breasted bouclé and imagine your playing that part with an  innovative home made scone or two.
Lemon and coriander scones with prawns,  coriander and dill or mint creme fraiche

(serves 20)

can be frozen for up to 1 month

185g (6oz)  self raising flour
15g (0.5oz) baking powder
 zest of one lemon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander

5 tablespoons milk

1 egg yolk beaten

45g (1.5oz) butter at room temperature

 4 fl oz (1/2 cup)creme fraiche
2.5 teaspoons Flor de sal
1 heaped teaspoon chopped dill or mint
250g (8oz)  small prawns
20 dill fronds for garnish

Sift flour,salt and baking powder in a bowl.
Add the lemon zest,chopped coriander and butter.Rub together until the mix resembles fine breadcrumbs.Gradually add the milk mixing it in with a palette knife until  a soft dough is formed.On a floured board roll out to 3/4 cm(1/4 in)thick.Cut scones out into rounds with a 4cm(1.5 in)plain cookie cutter,transfer them to a baking tray lined with vegetable parchment and glaze the tops with the beaten egg yolk.cook in a moderate oven until well risen and golden brown (about 12 minutes).Remove and cool,
Season the creme fraiche with the dill or mint.Split each scone in two and fill with the creme fraiche mixture.Place a prawn length ways at the front,replace the lid and garnish with a dill frond.

 
Orange date scones
( makes one large scone cut into wedges)

1 3/4 cups flour
1/2 cup sugar
3/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 cup butter
1 egg
2 tblsp milk
1 tsp grated orange peel
1/2 tsp vanilla
2/3 cup chopped dates

Combine all dry ingredients. Rub in the in butter, add dates and orange peel. Combine milk,egg and vanilla, beat slightly to break up the egg, and add to dry ingredients Gently shape dough into a ball; place on floured board and pat into a large circle about 1/2" thick.Cut into wedges, place on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees F. about 15 to 20 minutes.

ALTERNATIVE TASTES

Cheese and  bacon scones

Cheddar and herb scones
Parmesan scones with sundried tomato pesto and requeijao

Pomegranate scones with Ricotta

Indian scones with chilli coriander jam (V) 

Tomato and basil scones

Sweet potato scones

My favourite old-fashioned and not so old-fashioned tea rooms worth a visit

Chá do Carmo                                                                         
21 do Largo do Carmo Lisbon

You’ll find this cafe/tea house facing the ruins of Carmo Convent. It has a classic and very Lisbon interior, offering over 50 varieties of tea which go great with a freshly-baked scone.

 
 

Poison d'Amour                                                                       Rua da Escola Politécnica,32 - Príncipe Real Lisbon
This patisserie is a sweet temptation in the neighborhood of Principe Real. Mouth-watering pastries are displayed by the entrance and there is an elegant classic-modern décor that invites you to sit and enjoy them with a cup of tea.

                                                           

LA Tea Room
Avenida da Liberdade, 177, 1250-141 Lisbon 

The LA Tea Room is a classic space with a great view of the heart of Lisbon where you can enjoy some hot scones and a cup of tea sitting in one of the many red chairs occupying the room.


Tea-O Tea Room Lisbon

Rua Luis Augusto Palmerin, 18, ​​1700-275 Alvalade, Lisbon 
 70 different teas: black teas flavored and pure, pure and flavored green teas, oolong teas and precious teas whites,cakes and scones.

Patisserie Valerie 
Old Compton Street, SOHO London

Maison Bertaux. 

London’s oldest (and best) patisserie

28 Greek Street

SOHO London  

020 7437 6007

Caffè Florian
Piazza San marco,Venice
Florian’s, the oldest and most expensive cafe in Europe. The cover charge just to sit there is €14

                                             

Patisserie belle epoque
Stoke Newington Green.LondonN16
Stepping into the Belle Epoque Patisserie  on Newington Green is like being on holiday as it's just like a patisserie in a town or village in France with its beautiful display of tartes and gateaux.  http://www.belleepoque.co.uk/

Maison Angelina 
226 rue de Rivoli Paris 
An undeniably grand setting, once a popular haunt of Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel. 

 


Betty´s Tea room 

Harrogate, England

Mantecados, Los dulces de natal

Our guests from Seville this weekend were returning for their second visit, this time to celebrate their wedding anniversary.Like the wise men before them they came bearing gifts, not of gold frankincense and myrrh but cookies, chocolate and marzipan,all sweet traditional Andalucian Christmas goodies.
Well, it is December now so I suppose there is an excuse to consume some seasonal delicacies.I’m  not really sure if I like all of them or not, but I think that  when December rolls around basically anything sweet tastes good. I also love these drop in the ocean chances to be informed about other cultural and gastronomic traditions.
Mantecados and polvorones are little Spanish cookies they come in a variety of flavours, almond, cinnamon, chocolate,olive and even wine.
While mantecados can be found at any time of year in Spain, polvorones are usually consumed at Christmas.The history of Spanish cookies dates back to the 16th century, and it was first elaborated in Andalusia, some say in Estepa, others in Antequera and up till today these two towns are still in dispute over the invention. Unlike many Spanish foods, it wasn't the Moors that created them, as one of the main ingredients is lard.

typical home made mantecados from Estepa

We were told told that the town of Estepa smells like a cake factory in the run-up to Christmas, as local bakers and even home cooks work to meet the demand for its favourite biscuits. Some bakeries allow visitors to observe the baking process, and there is a small museum to the history of Estepa's biscuit tradition in the La Estepeña biscuit factory.
These traditional Spanish crumble cakes or "mantecados" crumble very easily. In fact, they are so soft, they will literally melt in your mouth. Light and with a delicate anise flavour, words will not do them justice. You'll have to make them to see why they are a Spanish family favourite and why no Spanish home is without "mantecados" at Christmas!

Sweet Lard Cakes (Mantecados)

( makes about 36 )

500g (1lb 2oz) plain flour

125g (41/2 oz )almonds blanched and skinned

250g(9oz) white lard

200g(7oz) sugar, sifted

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tbsp sesame seeds,toasted(optional)or 1 tsp anise seeds

icing sugar for dusting

Preheat the oven to150C(300F) Gas mark 3

Spread the flour in an oven tray and toast it in the oven until lightly coloured,stirring frequently so it browns evenly.Toast the almonds lightly,then chop finely or grind( a processor works well for this).Cool the flour and combine with the ground almonds.Beat the lard until smooth and fluffy.Beat in the sugar and cinnamon,then add the flour and almond mixture a little at a time and the toated sesame/ anise seeds if using.The dough will be quite crumbly.Pat it to a thickness of 1 cm(3/8inch ).Cut into 5cm (2inch) circles and place on a baking tray.Bake in the oven until the cakes are dried,about 30 minutes.Let them cool,then dust with icing sugar and wrap them individually in white tissue paper.

If you are a bit pushed busywise:
For UK readers only a reliable brand is imported by  Garcia´s the Spanish delicatessen at 246 Portobello Road,London and also available at their online store.

Cascas abobrinhas fritas, pintado com alecrim

Rosemary speckled butternut squash  crisps

Nothing gets wasted in our house. It all stems from my mother´s insistence on teaching me to use every last morsel. The term "waste not want not" probably originates in Yorkshire and means exactly what it says, never wasting anything results in never wanting anything, so when you are cooking make the most of  everything you´ve got. Watching a recent episode of Nigel Slater´s "Dish of the Day" I was interested to see him tackle this very issue.His dish of the day was butternut squash soup.When he prepared the butternut squash he retained the peelings and used them to make butternut crisps.This idea really appealed to me.

Like the potato, butternut squash provides an abundance of vitamins and nutrients known for preventing a wide variety of diseases. Its deep, golden colour gives us an indication that it is packed with beta carotenes, an important antioxidant that can help reduce the risk of a number of life-threatening conditions.In the past, potato skins were peeled prior to cooking with the idea that the potato would be cleaner, and therefore healthier; however, it has been discovered that leaving the potato skins intact can add nutrients to a meal. This is fortuitous because I just happen to love potato skins, I eat them skin and all every time we have baked potatoes. My grandmother used to freak saying that the outside of the potato was very dirty, no matter how hard you wash it. " If it comes from the shop there's no way you can get it clean!" Anyway, I haven't died yet so either the skin isn't deadly or the toxins are in very small amounts... 

Yesterday when I made butternut squash soup,  ( my recipe not Mr Slater´s) I thriftily kept the peeled strips and followed his recipe for rosemary speckled butternut squash crisps, and delicious they were too.I even think they could be jazzed up a notch or two by sprinkling them with a grating of Parmesan and some Flor de Sal crystals...next time.

Here is how its done: 
Peel the butternut squash and reserve the long strips of skin.Heat the oven to 150C/280F/gas mark 1.Place the reserved butternut peelings on a roasting tray and top with a drizzle of olive oil, a few drops of sherry vinegar and sprinkle over 2 tablespoons of chopped rosemary.Put in the oven and cook for 20 minutes on a low heat to crisp up.Remove the crisps from the oven and place them on kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil.At this point if you feel inclined you can also sprinkle them with some parmesan and Flor de Sal.I then put them back in the oven with the oven switched off to further crispen up for about an hour.

... and finally if you have any soup left over Mr Slater suggests adding it to a risotto -I did and it was a triumph.

Mercadinho de natal em London Uma excelente representação portuguesa!

Saturday 1 December and Sunday 2nd December

Open 11.00 - 17.00

Midori House,1 Dorset Street Marylebone London W1U 4EG

If you are down in the Marylebone neck of the woods this weekend you´re sure of a big surprise. Monocle has invited 15 of its favourite shops(“each unique and chosen specifically to suit Monocle’s exclusive audience and clientele”) from across the globe to be represented at it´s first Christmas market in London. Christina Portas´s A Vida Portuguesa Shop from Lisbon and Porto is one of the chosen few, she duly accepted and will be there.A VIDA PORTUGUESA was selected as one of the 10 most original shops in town by Time Out Lisbon.

Some traditional gift ideas from A Vida Portuguesa

Give that special someone a hand made traditional gift from Portugal this Christmas

Musgo Real Soaps have been made since 1887, and have primarily served the Portuguese aristocracy and upper classes since then. Now, more than a century later, Musgo Real is still a world acknowledged preference, being used daily by famous people - it's even Johnny Depp's favorite!

It's ancient formula is enriched with natural Coconut Oil and Glycerin which makes this soap even more creamy and smooth, especially useful for maintaining healthy skin daily. A unique aroma, combines the herbal essences of vetyver and eucalyptus with the vigorous accent of patchouli.

Wrap up warm this christmas with traditional blankets 

throws and rugs from the Alentejo

Flying high from portugal to London this Christmas - Ceramic swallows, reproduced from the original moulds of historic Portuguese ceramicists Bordalo Pinheiro

The perfect gift for any Choc-o-holic.Tangerine, Lemon grass or green tea chocolate in wrappers re-created with designs from yesteryear.

Handmade notebooks with strong cardboard covers (the style of an album),  recycled paper plain sheets  and a cotton thread knot. All with charming retro feel.

and if you don´t see it ask for artesan Castro Marim Flor de sal

 Uma excelente representação portuguesa!

Pastitsio and bechamel born again out of wedlock

The Greek word pastitsio (pa-STEE-tsee-oh) derives from the Italian pasticcio, and means "pie", and has developed into figurative meanings of "a mess", "a tough situation", or a pastiche.Loosely translated it´s a hodgepodge.My version that I cooked up this week might be a little cuckoo ( one who lays their eggs in another one´s nest,meddling I would say).I meddled and I mixed and made a delicious midweek mish mash of a meal.If you are a proud Greek please forgive me for tampering with one of your classic dishes.
 There are 3 essential components which make up this dish - pasta, meat filling, and a creamy bechamel sauce. These are layered in a pan and baked to a golden brown.

The typical Greek version has a bottom layer that is bucatini or other tubular pasta, with cheese and egg as a binder; a middle layer of ground beef, veal or lamb with tomato and cinnamon, nutmeg or allspice; another layer of pasta; and finally a top layer of sauce, varying from an egg-based custard to a flour-based Béchamel. Grated cheese is also often sprinkled on top. Pastitsio is a common dish, and is often served as a main course, with a salad.Bearing all this in mind,while cooking this up as a midweek supper dish,through a combination of lazyness and a measure of austerity I accidentally created a new form of bechamel.I couldn´t be a***d to go through all the kerfuffle that is the making of a beautiful bechamel and instead found a large tub of ricotta in the fridge that needed using up.A sudden flash of savoury ricotta inspiration came to me.As unassuming as ricotta is, it really has a lot of tricks up its sleeve.I thought I would put this versatility to the test.
In my blender, I blended 2 cups of the ricotta with 2 egg yolks, nutmeg and 1/2 cup of  Parmigiano Reggiano until smooth. Seasoned it all with salt and pepper. I pulsed in the remaining ricotta and before I could say hey pastitsio I had the makings of a cheats bechamel (a substitute sauce replicating butter, flour and milk).

• 2 tablespoon(s) extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 1/2 pound(s) lean ground beef mince
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
• 1 teaspoon fresh oregano,chopped
• 3/4 teaspoon(s) cinnamon
• pinch of ground cloves
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 3 cups tomato sauce or diluted tomato concentrate( see below)
• 500g macaronibucatini or other tubular pasta
• 3 cups fresh ricotta
• 4 large egg yolks
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Preheat the oven to 350°. Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the beef, onion,both types of oregano, cinnamon, cloves and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the beef is no longer pink and any liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Add some tomato sauce (a small tin of concentrated tomato purée diluted with water would be fine)  and bring to a boil. Boil over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced slightly, about 5 minutes.

Cook the pasta until barely al dente; drain and return to the pot. Meanwhile, in a blender, blend 2 cups of the ricotta with the yolks, nutmeg and 1/2 cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Pulse in the remaining ricotta.

Add your beef ragù to the pasta and toss. Transfer this mix to a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Pour the ricotta mixture on top and sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Bake in the centre of the oven for about 20 minutes, until heated through. Heat the grill  and grill until the top is golden brown. Let stand for a few minutes before serving.

So out of austerity comes something simple but delicious.
Each stage requires dirtying several pots and pans, but I hope you will agree that after all the work the end result is well worth the washing up!