Compliments of the season

 "When we met, I always knew
I would feel that magic for you"

Caught up in the rapture  of the season it can be so easy to forget to pay attention to the finer details of one´s cooking.Those all important little tweeks like that reminder at the end of recipes that says "taste" and "Adjust the seasoning". I have been experimenting with ways of using up some of the summers harvest.The three key ingredients I chose for my experiment were dried thyme, piri piri peppers and sundried tomatoes. The experiment was to introduce some  flavours to compliment natural Flor de Sal.Lovely aromatic produce that I had gathered during the hot arid Portuguese summer could be used to bring a little warmth and piquancy to enhance winter´s compendium.To have these little seasonal helpers to hand can be a godsend.Its all about that other phrase that food writers bandy about "salt and pepper to taste"

Thyme salt

Add 1/3 dried thyme to Flor desal and mix until the salt is flecked with herb

Piri piri salt

Add dried chilli flakes to flor de sal in a proportion of 
1 part chilli flakes to 3 parts Flor de sal

Sundried tomato salt

Add very finely chopped sundried tomatoes and mix them 
1 part tomato to three parts Flor de sal
make sure the sundried tomatoes are really dry.Semi dried tomatoes willhave some moisture in them that will react with the salt and make the mix damp.

.....and while on the subject of home flavoured salt,home made celery salt will come in very useful over the festive season,not only in cooking but as an essential part of the morning after, hair of the dog, Mary.

Broas castelares a cake is for now not just for Christmas

You can scroll the four corners of the world, through books, recipes and ingredients,looking for different slants on traditional recipes but you know that certain recipes cant be messed with and one must go back to the original source of the recipe"Cozinha Tradicional Portuguesa" 
In this case I was looking for Portuguese cake recipes with sweet potato. And that´s how I came to find the Broas Castelares - Portuguese Sweet Potato Cakes.
These are small oval cakes made for the Christmas period in Portugal.These delicious broas are now not only sold all over Lisbon and Estremadura province,where they originated, but all over Portugal.They are sold both before and well after the Christmas season,but there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason why these little broas have become Santas little seasonal saviours.
This is the first time I have made these, and here I have a small confession. I have learnt from experience how Portuguese cakes, pastries and sweets are overloaded with sugar so I knew I had to make some adjustments to the original recipe, in order to adapt them to my not so sweet Gallic tooth.
Traditionally they are very sugary, which as I mentioned is usual in Portuguese sweets. The dough is dense and yet soft and slightly moist. I therefore have to confess, only for this reason, to having adjusted the recipe. I lessened the sugar and used less honey, and added a bit of salt to enhance the flavour which becomes much milder when the amount of sugar is reduced. And that´s exactly what I did this weekend, to continue making the most of my batch of sweet potatoes and mitigate the misery of an unpredicted cold spell.By coincidence, as I dusted my little broas, Big broa was lightly dusting Lisboa with a snow shower. Spoon more, spoon more, toujour spoon more....

Broas Castelares - Portuguese Sweet Potato Cakes

Adapted from "Cozinha Tradicional Portuguesa"

400 g sweet potatoes
250 g caster sugar
2 tbs honey
1/2 tsp salt
225 g yellow corn flour (thinly ground)
50 g plain flour
75 g ground almonds
2 eggs
Zest of 1/2 orange
Zest of 1/2 lemon
1 yolk for the glaze
Confectioners sugar to dust

Preheat the oven to 240º, 475f, gas mark 9.
Make a small cut into the potatoes and boil them until tender. Wait a bit for them to cool and then peel them and puree the pulp.
Measure out 400g pulp and mix with the sugar. Heat gently for 5 minutes, stirring to prevent from burning. Remove from the heat and let it cool a bit.Add the remaining ingredients to the sweet potato mix and take to heat once more, stirring until it comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and cool completely.Grease and flour a baking sheet.
Shape the sweet potato dough into oval, flat cakes, brush with the egg yolk and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven, let the cakes cool completely on top of a wire rack and then dust them with icing sugar.

Gougeres,buns or puffs? bacon and cheese from heaven

Eating one´s way through the medieval history of Portugal it is almost unavoidable not to indulge in some sinful treats.Most of these have a conventual history.The one that most often springs to mind is Toucinho de Céu,literally translated as “bacon from heaven”.The origin of this delicacy is said to have come from Odivelas,a Lisbon suburb,where the old convent was famous for its poetry sessions followed by drinks accompanied by conventual specialities.The original recipe was  extraordinarily rich with a heck of a lot of eggs and obviously because of its title, the inclusion of bacon.This was a sweet recipe too,and it inspired me to make my own “savoury” version of bacon from heaven.
Gougéres, cheese buns, pão de queijo,cheese breads, puffs or popovers,call them what you will but I have to say come Christmas time you will be oh so glad to have a batch of these gorgeous puffed up little buns in your freezer when an unexpected poof or two might pop over.
And since we are right on the brink of the busiest entertaining season of the year, I knew it would be the perfect time to share this little something with you.
This is one of those recipes that you can go ahead and begin making one rainy December day in preparation.Just make these now, ahead of time, and you will avoid unwanted tailgating on your kitchen prep when the party season starts.
Cheese and Bacon gougeres make one of the lightest and easiest of appetizers and nibbles, and while they are a taste sensation straight out of the oven, these little balls of air are just as delicious pulled out of the freezer and reheated for a quick nibble. You can whip up these Cheese and Bacon gougeres in less than 30 minutes and then watch them disappear even more quickly,leaving you with an empty serving platter and time to master the rest of the ceremony.Perfection for party peeps I would say.
I had already got wind (pardon the expression so early in the morning )that baby cheese buns are a popular snack and breakfast food in Brazil, so after my early Sunday morning baking bonanza I carefully popped my warm buns into a bread basket,the thespian knocked up some scrambled eggs and after that a good gougere was hard to find.Micro focus group completed without finalizing a name for them, my baby buns are now well on their way to feed festive gobs.
So since this re-invented Brazilian street food is a potential crowd-puller, I highly recommend making two or three batches of these babies so that you have plenty to freeze for later. Make ‘em soon, stock pile a few dozen. You’ll thank me.I Promise.

Bacon and Cheese Gougéres 
1 cup water
4 tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup flour
4 large eggs
1 cup coarsely grated Queijo da Ilha ( substitute mature cheddar )
4 slices cooked bacon chopped
1/4 tsp black pepper
generous pinch of dried piri piri (chilli flakes)
Pre-heat your oven to 200C/390 f
Line a baking tray with parchment or silicon mat

Bring water, butter, and salt to a rolling boil in a medium, heavy bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Stirring vigorously, add in all of the flour and cook until the dough begins to pull away from the edges of the saucepan. Remove dough from heat and transfer to a food processor and allow to cool for approximately two to three minutes. Alternately, you can leave in the saucepan and use a hand mixer, if desired. Add in eggs, one at a time, beating in completely after each addition. Stir in cheese, bacon pieces, black pepper, and chilli flakes making sure all ingredients are well-combined.
Spoon small dollops onto baking sheet. Using a damp finger or back of a spoon, press down any pieces of dough that are sticking up to prevent them from overbrowning. Bake 25-30 minutes,until they  have turned a golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly.
Serve immediately or allow to cool completely, place in airtight container or zip top freezer bags and freeze for up to three months.

World Aids Day 2013

Red ribbon of pequillo pepper

World AIDS Day is held on 1 December each year and is an opportunity for people worldwide to unite in the fight against HIV, show their support for people living with HIV and to commemorate people who have died. World AIDS Day was the first ever global health day and the first one was held in 1988. I have created my own 2013 remembrance in the form of a red ribbon of pequillo pepper.

From Ribatejo to the Açores and back in the Algarve - Grelos-growing your own grub

Pork tenderloin, turnip greens migas and black eyed beans

Grelos -so beautiful, why do I think weddings?

One of the joyous things about blogging is that there are bloggers out there whose blogs you faithfully follow but know very little about the author. It is with these people that you share an inexplicable je ne sais quoi,that something in common, a mutual bond shall we say. One of these particular bloggers, Elvira, I do not know, yet I love what she expresses on her blog and the always trusted recipes she shares with us. She lives on the island of Terceira in the Açores, but she was brought up on mainland Portugal,in the north of the Ribatejo.
Her recipes always have a homely rustic quality about them that I love.They are such a joy to recreate too with very straightforward instructions that always work. I have over the last three years made many of her recipes and never been disappointed.What I love even more is that it is more than just following a recipe ,it is at the same time giving me an insight and expanding my knowledge of another regions cuisine.
The province of Ribatejo is situated right in the middle of mainland Portugal.With no coastline or border with Spain,the region is crossed by the Tagus River.It is also home to one of the most beautiful breeds of horse in the world,the famous Lusitano
It borders with Estremadura in the west and south, Beira Litoral in the north, Beira Baixa in the north east, and Alentejo in the east and south.So it is easy to see how there're so many overlaps of culture in its gastronomy.
Ribatejo’s rich gastronomy includes traditional regional dishes such as Sopa da Pedra ( Stone Soup), stews, roasted or fried goat, broad beans with chouriço, eggs in tomato sauce.
The province has a great variety of produce, which is well known for its quality and quantity. This includes corn, grapes, wine, potatoes, carrots, turnips, onions, garlic, cabbage, turnip greens, rice, wheat, tomato, runner beans, broad beans, sugar beet, melon, figs, oranges, olives and olive oil, to name but a few.When I popped in to her blog for a recent peek the  recipe I found introduced me to one of these crops, Grelos (turnip greens) Grelos are the same vegetable as the Italians know as raab, cime di rapa, rapini, etc. Ideally they are harvested when the plants have shot up and formed a tight flower cluster that looks like a miniature broccoli head.Her pedigree recipe combines the grelos with migas another very typical dish of the Ribatejo.
In the past migas would have been served up as peasant food as a means of nourishment for those whose means could not afford meat. Nowadays the dish is making appearances in some of the smartest and refined restaurants across the country, even across the globe. People of all social classes have now adopted the dish and made it fashionable as something snazzy to accompany all kinds of meat and fish dishes.I personally really loved this extremely tasty rustic speciality.So much so,it has even made me go out and buy a packet of seeds so I can grow my own Grelos.I was not however lucky enough to have found a seed packet with a recipe attached to it like this one I found on the internet.I've never seen a serving suggestion on a seed packet before but here's grelos or turnip tops with chorizo. One for later maybe?


Pork tenderloin,turnip greens migas 
and black eyed beans (English translation)
This particular dish which Elvira posted is nothing special, just good homely Portuguese peasant fare.Each tenderloin very simply cooked in Massa de pimentao again a very traditional recipe from Elvira´s homeland.
Accompanied by a few stale old crumbs that are a compromise between the delicious food of the Ribatejo and the neighboring Alentejo. A dish that is good for the soul.
serves 4 people

700 g lean pork tenderloin, trimmed of fat 
1 table spoon Massa de pimentao or other hot chili paste 
200ml dry white wine 
 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped 
1 bay leaf 
1 bunch chopped Grelos, turnip greens, raab, cime di rapa, spinach … 
350 g of day old rustic bread 
500 ml water 
250 ml of olive oil 
200g canned frade (black eyed beans), rinsed and drained 
handful of fresh coriander, chopped 
Salt & freshly ground black pepper

Slice the pork tenderloin and place them in a deep dish. Add the chili paste white wine, half the chopped garlic cloves and bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper.Cover with clear film and reserve in the refrigerator overnight.On the day of preparation, trim the greens, only saving the tips and more tender leaves.Discard the tough stalks. Pass under cold running water and drain. Cut the bread into small pieces and put it in a large bowl. Sprinkle with water and leave to soak.Drain and lightly dry the slices of meat with paper towel. Reserve the marinade. Heat 100 ml oil in a large skillet. Add the slices of meat and sear on both sides over medium heat.Add the marinade and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cover with a lid. Simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. Adjust the seasoning at the end of cooking. Meanwhile, prepare the migas. Heat the remaining oil in a pan and sauté the remaining minced garlic for 1 minute.Add the greens and saute until wilted. Squeeze as much water as you can out of the bread- and add it to the greens mixing it well. Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the beans and half the chopped coriander. Mix well and cook for 2 more minutes. Season with salt and pepper.Serve piping hot tenderloin from the pan and sprinkled with the remaining coriander. With the aid of two tablespoons mould the migas into quenelles and serve around the tenderloin pieces.Spoon some hot pan sauces around the plates. Bom apetite!!
Lombinhos de porco com migas de grelos e feijão-frade
(Elvira´s original version)
Para 4-5 pessoas
700 g de lombinhos de porco, limpos de gorduras 
1 colher (sopa) bem cheia de massa de pimentão malagueta 
200 ml de vinho branco seco 6 dentes de alho, picados finamente 
1 folha de louro 
1 molho de grelos - ou de nabiças, espinafres… 
350 g de pão rústico de véspera 
500 ml de água 
250 ml de azeite 
200 g de feijão-frade de conserva, lavado e escorrido 
2 colheres (sopa) de coentros frescos, picados 
sal & pimenta preta moída no momento
Fatiar os lombinhos de porco e colocar-los num prato fundo. Juntar a massa de malagueta, o vinho branco, metade dos dentes de alho picados e a folha de louro. Temperar com sal e pimenta.Cobrir com filme transparente e reservar no frigorífico de um dia para o outro.No dia da preparação, arranjar os grelos, guardando unicamente as pontas e as folhas mais tenras. Passar sob água fria corrente e deixar escorrer.Cortar o pão em pedaços pequenos e colocar este numa tigela grande. Regar com a água e deixar embeber.Escorrer e secar ligeiramente as fatias de carne com papel absorvente. Reservar a marinada. Aquecer 100 ml de azeite numa frigideira ampla. Adicionar as fatias de carne e alourar de ambos os lados em lume médio.Juntar a marinada e levar a ferver. Baixar o lume e cobrir com uma tampa. Deixar cozinhar em lume brando durante 20 minutos. Rectificar os temperos no final da cozedura.Entretanto, preparar as migas. Aquecer o azeite restante num tacho e saltear os alhos picados restantes durante 1 minuto.Juntar os grelos e saltear até murcharem. Adicionar o pão - sem o escorrer - e envolver muito bem. Cozinhar durante 2 minutos, mexendo sempre.Juntar o feijão-frade e metade dos coentros picados. Misturar muito bem e cozinhar por mais 2 minutos. Temperar com sal e pimenta.Servir os lombinhos bem quentes, com o molho da frigideira e polvilhados com os coentros picados restantes. Acompanhar com as migas moldadas em forma de pastéis - com o auxílio de duas colheres de sopa.

NOTE
For quick cooked greens, it is extremely important to select greens with young, tender leaves.   If you start with huge, mature turnip greens, collards, or the thicker varieties of kale, they will need to cook longer. Luckily  small bunches of young, tender green are now increasingly available in our local markets.

The label said not but this hit the spot

Rolo de carne de porco

The anticipation of the impending festive season finds me on an inspired mission to clear some space in my freezer.A year of un-labelled or mis-labelled items that I don't even remember freezing was going to prove to be  this seasons fun foodie adventure."I´m a cook get me out of here." With trepidation I delved deep into frosty corners unaware of what I might find lurking in the icy depth of the bottom drawer.To be more precise, I was actually looking for a frozen pork loin that was to be our Sunday dinner.With fear of frostbite I retrieved the item I thought I was looking for.Things however do not always go according to plan. As the contents of the plastic freezer bag gradually defrosted it was becoming evident that my much anticipated pork loin was actually a large ball of pork mince.With dinner time fast approaching and two manly mouths to feed it was too late to worry now.Thinking fast on my feet, a tasty mushroom and pork stroganov scenario was rapidly becoming a Pork and sage meatloaf.So if this was the first episode of mission Ice cold in Castro, what other unidentified tupperware containers are awaiting my cold grasp in the back corners of the other two drawers.

Minced pork and sage meatloaf
From chopping board to plate in just one hour 

This very easy to make ever so tasty pork meatloaf was a great alternative way to use up left over mince. Serve it on a bed of creamy seasonal mash with some fresh greens,or with some sautéed potatoes or salad.
If you have any left over fry slices in a little butter till crispy on the outside.Slather some ketchup or relish on fresh white country bread and you have the makings of a sausage sandwich with a difference.

Prep Time: 15 mins
Cook Time: 45 mins

1 tbsp sunflower oil
1 large onion, finely diced
1 celery stalk
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tsp flaked sea salt
1 heaped tsp dried ground sage
sprig of thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon chilli flakes
500g/1lb 2oz pork mince
175g/6oz fresh white breadcrumbs
dash of Worcester sauce,soya sauce or molho piccante
1 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
2 medium eggs, beaten

Heat oven to 180°C and line a loaf pan with generously overlapping baking paper (using baking paper makes it easier to get the meatloaf out of the pan).Heat the oil in a small frying pan. Add onion, celery and garlic with chili flakes and a pinch of salt. Cook until translucent. Cool slightly.
Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl until well combined. Press mixture into prepared pan and fold over the baking paper on all sides to cover the top
Season with salt and pepper and bake for 45 minutes until cooked through. Remove from oven and stand in pan for 5 minutes. Gently lift meatloaf from pan onto a board and slice. Serve immediately.

I am on a mission to empty my freezer before Christmas and unfortunately it means I am discovering frozen foods that one I didn't know I had (or frankly didn't remember - that case of out of sight, now out of mind) or unidentified things in Tupperware that I can't remember freezing and once defrosted have no ideal why I had kept them in the first place, apart from some ingrained sense of thrift. I suspect that this latter scenario is something to do with a combination of the current economic climate and being the child of people who themselves were brought up during an era of austerity and rationing. - See more at: http://marmadukescarlet.blogspot.pt/2011/10/tartare-sauce-inspired-fish-cakes.html#sthash.zcJnDfv4.dpuf

I am on a mission to empty my freezer before Christmas and unfortunately it means I am discovering frozen foods that one I didn't know I had (or frankly didn't remember - that case of out of sight, now out of mind) or unidentified things in Tupperware that I can't remember freezing and once defrosted have no ideal why I had kept them in the first place, apart from some ingrained sense of thrift. I suspect that this latter scenario is something to do with a combination of the current economic climate and being the child of people who themselves were brought up during an era of austerity and rationing. - See more at: http://marmadukescarlet.blogspot.pt/2011/10/tartare-sauce-inspired-fish-cakes.html#sthash.zcJnDfv4.dpuf

I am on a mission to empty my freezer before Christmas and unfortunately it means I am discovering frozen foods that one I didn't know I had (or frankly didn't remember - that case of out of sight, now out of mind) or unidentified things in Tupperware that I can't remember freezing and once defrosted have no ideal why I had kept them in the first place, apart from some ingrained sense of thrift. I suspect that this latter scenario is something to do with a combination of the current economic climate and being the child of people who themselves were brought up during an era of austerity and rationing. - See more at: http://marmadukescarlet.blogspot.pt/2011/10/tartare-sauce-inspired-fish-cakes.html#sthash.zcJnDfv4.dpuf

Pão batata doce com chouriço e bacon makes the best ever egg mayonnaise sandwich

This is the time of year when one needs to brush up on one´s baking skills.I have never professed to being a baker and will never receive any accolades in that department.I have no fear however of sailing into uncharted waters.As you all know by now by default the Portuguese sweet potato has become my vegetable of the month.I had a very specific idea in mind for my next sweet potato recipe.I trolled the length and breadth of the internet highway but could I find a recipe? Could I heck.So it was all down to writing my own recipe from scratch.My mission was to bake a loaf with bacon and chouriço using a sweet potato dough.Surprised? - I think you will be.Well I did not get off to a very promising start,bear with. My initial dough was far too wet.Potatoes carry quite a lot of moisture so I needed to redress the balance of wet to dry ingredients.My dough did not “develop” in the same way that most bread doughs do.It was essentially one part flour to one part potato.It required a  lot less kneading (that wasn´t a bad thing as far as I was concerned).About ten minutes would produce sufficient gluten for my not so little loaf to rise beautifully.Thank god for that, the first hurdle was now crossed.My loaf was starting to take shape,if a rather strange one, but “Its a long way to “tipapadaria, but my heart was right there”.Bread dough made with potatoes it seems,results in a softer crust than all-flour doughs.This meant my loaf had a longer shelf life ( another plus) - 3 days to be precise.My bread had a smooth, moist, rich interior that would do justice to most anything.It made a welcome alternative to the breakfast table served with eggs.While on the subject of eggs, it later made a couple of rounds of the best ever egg mayonnaise sandwiches

Sweet potato bread with chouriço and bacon
1 (11g) sachet of active dried yeast (fermento em po)
125 ml warm water (105ºF)
2 medium sweet potatoes,boiled in water to cover until tender,drained peeled and cooled
500g strong white bread flour
1/2 small onion chopped finely
200g cooking chouriço
125g bacon chopped
1/2tsp salt
1Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp minced garlic
2tbsp fresh parsley
additional olive oil for bowl
additional flour for the work surface

In a small bowl dissolve the yeast in the warm water.Set aside till its creamy,about 15 minutes.
Place the cooked peeled potatoes in a large mixing bowl and mash them well until smooth.Measure the mashed potato and return 11/2 cups to the bowl to use for the bread dough.Reserve any remaining for another use.Meanwhile put the onion, chouriço and bacon in frying pan and cook until the onion softens but is not coloured and the fat from the meats is giving off good juice.Set aside to cool.Add the flour salt,olive oil,garlic, parsley and cooked meat mix to the mashed potato.Begin kneading the dough in the bowl,keeping one hand clean in order to hold and turn the bowl while using the other hand to work the dough.
As soon as the mixture comes together in a rough yet cohesive mass,which will happen quite quickly,add the yeast mixture and continue kneading in the bowl.Vigorously fold the dough in from the sides of the bowl toward the centre.Rotate the bowl as you do this (Phewwwww!!!)picking up the dough and slapping it back into the bowl several times and keep on kneading vigorously until it is tender and somewhat smooth,about 10 more minutes.There is no correct way to knead by the way, just as long as you fold press and stretch your dough into a uniform shape.
Shape the dough into a large ball.Rub a large bowl all over with the olive oil and place the dough in the bowl.Turn the ball so that all surfaces are coated with oil.Cover the bowl with a cloth and leave the dough to to rise in a warm place until doubled in size for  11/4 hours.
Punch down the dough by folding the edges into the centre and turning it over so the top is once again smooth.Re-cover the bowl and let the dough rise a second time until doubled,about 45 minutes.Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface.Trying not to overwork the dough,fold the edges in towards the centre again.Work in a circular motion,folding the entire rim of the dough in towards the centre several times to form a round ball with a smooth side.Spread a fairly thick layer of flour on a work surface.Place the ball of dough rough side down on the flour.Cover the loaf with a towel and let it rise at room temperature for about an hour.The dough is ready when it springs back gently in response to being lightly pressed with your index finger.Place a baking stone or pizza tray in the oven and pre-heat to 200F.With help of a flat fish slice and your hand slide the loaf onto the baking tray.Bake the loaf for 40 to 50 minutes or until it is golden brown on top and darker brown on the bottom.It should also have a hollow ring when tapped on the bottom.Remove to a wire rack to cool completely.

The best ever egg mayonnaise sandwich
The fresher the eggs the better the sandwich
Makes enough egg mayo for 2 large rounds of sandwiches.

4 size 2 free-range eggs,boiled for 6 minutes
1 tbsp butter,at room temperature
celery salt
freshly ground black pepper
1-2 tbsp mayonnaise
small pinch of mild curry powder

Shell the hot eggs under a cold running tap.
Shake off the the water and put them in clean dry bowl.Add the butter,a pinch of celery salt,some freshly ground black pepper and mash everything together with a fork.Don´t over mash,it´s important that the egg mayo is chunky.Let it cool for 10 minutes or so.Then add the mayonnaise and small pinch of mild curry powder and stir together.

Tempted by Jannson - Proudly made in Portugal, Batata e anchova no forno

 A snazzy new way to serve Jannson´s temptation

I was recently asked the question by one of our guests as to why Bacalhau is still so prolific in Portugal when its historically purposeful task was to provide long life nourishment in the days before refrigeration was an option. It is all due to the Vikings,who navigated the coast of Portugal to trade goods and ideas.Dragging home with them Portuguese princesses to marry danish kings, and more importantly,vast quantities of salt to preserve their cod.When the Vikings stopped coming the canny Portuguese,having no cod of their own,sailed the seas as far as Newfoundland to fish it.They took with them ,as the Vikings had taught them their fiel amigo( faithful friend) bacalhau.Nowadays cod is no longer fished by the Portuguese and therefore all cod products are imported,a great percentage coming from Norway and Iceland for salting in Portugal.Edite Vieira,in her book "The taste of Portugal",says she will only eat salt cod made in Portugal; she claims the flavour texture and colour are superior to all others.She must have a point otherwise why does it feature so prominently in their cuisine.There is even a recipe book with 365 recipes for their Fiel amigo - one for every day of the year.So there you have the answer, it is in fact keeping a nations longstanding tradition with cod fishing alive.The Vikings have produced many of my favourite potato dishes and so I decided to bring this long standing association of two culinary diverse cultures together with a bit of Scandinavian culinary skullduggery.Include a classic Portuguese staple, the anchovy, and the result is a simple recipe that I owe big time to Jansson whoever he was.Who Jansson was, we may never know, but this meal is an absolute must on a cold winter´s evening, standing alone as a supper dish or as a side dish to lamb.You might be put off by the inclusion of anchovies but dont be.

In Sweden the original with ansjovis (pickled sprats - available at Ikea) is unlikely to be served as an accompaniment to lamb which was rarely eaten in Sweden until recently, because they thought it tasted of wool!All you anchovy sceptics will be really surprised at how well the saltiness of the fish works in this dish. If the anchovies are a definite 'no', then substitute smoked salmon. It won't have the same saltiness in each bite, but the salmon can be just as delicious in its own right.This dish – originally from Sweden – is incredibly simple, but don’t rush it. It is also fantastic with freshly grated Parmesan, sprinkled over the top before you pop it in the oven.Not quite authentic but tasty.Just be prepared for some divine smells emanating from your oven, garlic and anchovies can pack a mean punch.

Batata e anchova no forno 

A simple and tasty way to jazz up a jacket potato This simple recipe transforms the humble spud into a delicious, perfect baked potato with just 5 ingredients

30g can anchovy fillets in olive oil
25g butter
2 medium onions, very finely sliced
4 medium, waxy potatoes (about 800g), thinly sliced
284ml carton double cream, made up to 300ml with milk
1 large russet, baker, or red potato per portion 
2 tablespoons dry bread crumbs
1 tablespoon melted butter

Preheat the oven to 200°C/fan180°C/gas 6. Drain the anchovies, reserving their oil. Gently heat half the butter in a saucepan and stir in the anchovy oil as it melts. Add the onions and fry over a low heat until they are very sweet – don’t let them brown. This should take a good 20 minutes. Once cooked, set aside.
Scrub your potatoes until good and clean.Using a sharp knife, make slices across the potato, being sure to stop before you reach its bottom. If you’re scared of cutting too far, a good technique is resting the potato in a wooden spoon. The spoon will actually prevent you from going too far!Next, open the potatoes’ crevices and with a teaspoon carefully insert dollops of the anchovy onion mixture into every other crevice,followed by some cream.When you have filled all the alternate crevices,mix bread crumbs together with the melted butter, then sprinkle over the top of the potatoes. 

Bake them at 400ºF/200C for about 45 minutes to an hour depending on their size. 

A more traditional plate of Jannson

Tarte de Batata Doce( Sweet potato pie ) giving thanks for a guilty pleasure

 Version 1 with home made sweet pastry crust

Not everybody is a great fan of Autumn like me, but when the afternoons draw in and the warm aroma of cinnamon and nutmeg waft through the kitchen its hard for anyone not to be a happy pumpkin. I have never quite got the point of that starchy sweet tasting tuber, the sweet potato,but since experimenting with a roasted sweet potato and chouriço soup I have not only become enamoured but it has become this month´s guilty pleasure.This week found me making two different variations on a theme of Sweet Potato Pie.I am not American and therefore will not be celebrating Thanksgiving ,but it does not stop me from sharing the sentiment of appreciating everything good that has happened during the year.
This sweet potato pie has the consistency of a very light mousse, with a taste much like pumpkin pie because of the spices.My two versions were one with a traditional sweet pastry crust and one more like a cheesecake without the crust.Both versions I topped with a syrup made from a local organic thyme honey.My own personal preference was for the latter.

Tarte de Batata Doce( Sweet potato pie )
1 quantity home made sweet pastry or 1 Package Frozen Pie Dough
2 Large orange fleshed sweet Potatoes
120gr of butter (room temperature)
2 eggs
125ml Evaporated Milk
125gr White Sugar
75gr of light Brown Sugar
1/2 Teaspoon grated nutmeg (Noz moscada)
1/2 Teaspoon Cinnamon Powder (canela)
1 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract (pure) 
1 tablespoon honey
Thyme honey Mel de tomilho for making syrup topping

Wash the potatoes well. In a pan with boiling water put potatoes and cook for about 45m to 55m approximately. Remove the potatoes and let cool a little then with the tip
of your fingers remove the skin, cut into small cubes and set aside.
Line a  8inch (20cm)loose bottomed pie tin with your sweet pastry chill for 20 minutes in the refrigerator and then blind bake.Alternatively follow manufacturers instructions on the packet.
Preheat the oven to 180C. 
In the bowl of an electric mixer  put the cubes of sweet potato and beat at medium speed until pureed and formed a homogeneous paste. Melt butter and add to the mix. Beat for a few more seconds, then add the brown sugar and then white sugar gradually. Add the evaporated milk and add one egg at a time, allow an interval of a few seconds between the addition of each egg. Increase the speed a little and add  the spices and honey, beat for a few minutes until get a creamy texture but a little liquid (Don´t worry it will get its consistency while it is baking in the oven).Adjust the seasoning. Pour the filling into the pie shell with a spatula and flatten slightly. 
( if you are making the version without the pie crust grease the pie tin and line the bottom with a circle of baking parchment.)
Bake for around 50 minutes to 1 hour depending on the oven. 
When slightly cool melt enough thyme honey in a small pan over a medium heat and pour all over the top of the pie.Allow to cool then serve.
Bom Apetite!

  Version 2 without any crust

A deliciously achievable meal for just €1

The Observer award winning Skint Foodie would be proud of this.We all like to see savings in the price of our weekly shopping basket.A nourishing meal full of smart, fashionable ingredients for next to nothing,even better.Part of my work is the responsibility for portion control and costing the food we serve here at Casa Rosada.As proprietors we need feeding too,so I am even more aware of current market prices and how it affects the food I purchase.I really surprised myself this week when I costed out a midweek supper dish for the two of us.The unit cost was under €1 per portion.WOW. This is not only a healthy and appetising dish easily achievable at home but one worthy of any smart restaurant such as the River Cafe in London, a fashionable restaurant in Lisbon, Porto or any Italian city.I cite these countries in particular because I know the ingredients are  native and therefore readily available in these countries.The dish, I am pretty certain, originates from Italy.Whether you are up Pompeii, down yonder Yorkshire dale or just pottering around any market town in Portugal,it is so accesible. All you need is a good deli or gourmet section of any notable supermarket, a farmers market or fresh produce stall and by George, Gino, or Gonzalo you have a grande hit on your hands.If this is the quality of the proprietors supper,what can the guests expect?-leave that up to them to tell you...

Orechiette com cime di rapa (grelos,turnip tops)
serves 2
400g Grelos,cime di rapa or turnip tops,finely chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves peeled and thinly sliced
3 small dried chillis,crumbled
12 whole salted anchovies( 1 Tin)
Juice of 1 small lemon
Cook the pasta in salted boiling water as per the producers instructions.Drain and set aside. Heat the oil over a low heat in a pan large enough to incorporate all the ingredients at the end.Fry the garlic until it just begins to colour,add the chilli, followed by the anchovies and stir until the anchovies have dissolved to a paste.Throw in the Grelos and continue cooking until well wilted.Add a small amount of boiling water to release the anchovy and make a sauce.Stir and cook for 5-10 minutes,add the lemon juice.Stir in the pasta and mix well to combine.Serve immediately.