Saturday, 10 March 2012

Seville Orange Snow


At the expense of losing a friend,Rachel @marmaduke scarlet I write yet another Seville orange post.Yes, I have a Seville orange tree in our garden, but bear with, trying to keep apace with the fruit it yields is indeed a challenge.Its now March and god help us, the crop is coming to an end - believe me Rachel this is a large tree,and I dont want to put a ladder against it again this year. Snow in Seville at any time of the year- low fat chance. However my annual obsession with Seville oranges continues, this my final instalment being a sweet and sour granita.A refreshing flavoured snow, an extraordinary mush served in its own shell for a spectacular dessert suited to the calorie conscious  and the truffle-eating epicure alike. No cook,no machine,what more could a host ask for.This is an offer you can't refuse.
Water ices are based on a flavoured sugar syrup rather than a custard – and are thus much quicker and easier to make. Granitas must be beaten at regular intervals during the freezing process in order to develop their characteristic crystalline texture. Sorbets should, in theory, be smooth – which is less labour intensive, particularly if you're lucky enough to own a machine to take care of the churning side of things. You really can't make this ice too zingy. Spend time tweaking the balance of sweet and sour until it suits you.Simple and natural -   a fruit made ice cold and turned into a dream.Beat it into submission, and you'll be rewarded with an effortless moment of bliss.No fat and very little added sugar, it is almost as healthy as a fruit juice and much more fun to make and to serve.And it doesn't stop there,tangerine, lemon, lime or citrus combos.I keep a box of this in the freezer for guests. Some prefer a light refresher at the end of dinner as opposed to a moreserious pudding, and on the right occasion an intercourse sorbet might be the order of the day.So keep some hollowed out fruit shells in the freezer too,and as you can see,  yes I finished it with a hat.
Seville orange granita
sugar 100g
water 200ml
lemon juice 400ml
Put the sugar and water into a saucepan and warm over a moderate to high heat until the sugar has dissolved. There is no need to boil this down to thick syrup, just make sure there is no undissolved sugar in it. Leave to cool completely.This is more than enough for the recipe but you can add extra syrup to sweeten your granita to taste.
Pour the Seville orange juice into 100ml of the sugar syrup. It will be seriously sharp and refreshing. If it is too bitter, then add more sugar syrup to taste. Either pour the mixture into an ice-cream maker or freeze by hand. If you are taking the latter option, pour the mixture into a tupperware and freeze for 3 or 4 hours until ice crystals are forming around the edge. Beat them into the liquid centre until you have a sort of lemon slush, then freeze again for a couple of hours and, once again, beat the mixture and freeze again. This beating will help the structure of the granita and stop it freezing into a solid block.You are aiming for the characteristic crystallised slush.
Once it is frozen, leave it to soften slightly before serving. Rough, snowy slushy lumps are preferable to neat quenelles.

2 comments:

  1. i forgive you! You can't lose my friendship that easily!

    I have to admit that I love the seville orange so much that I have managed to track some down in my neck of the woods. They are probably past their best, but I have saved the juice and zest and frozen it . . . I thought that was quite smart actually!

    BTW, this recipe sounds gorgeous, and actually rather beautifully retro. I hope you don't mind me saying this, but it reminds of recipes I used to read in my mother's 1960s and '70s cookbooks!

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    1. You are so right it is deliciously retro.The idea came to me when nostalgic thoughts crossed my mind about how citrus sorbets used to be presented in those trendy 70´s Indian establishments like Khans in Westbourne Grove.

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