Forgotten soups Vichysoisse

Vichysoisse of pear and cabrales cheese, recipe below

Légumes oubliés or forgotten vegetables, is a term coined by French chefs and gardeners to champion those vegetables left behind by the modern world that are often ugly or hard to grow: think gnarly root vegetables and the likes of jerusalem artichokes, salsify and cardoons. But the term forgotten veg also covers those not-at-their-best specimens at the back of the fridge, such as limp lettuce and borderline beets, all of which can be turned into delicious soup.Soup is so often taken for granted maybe simply because of its ubiquity. There isn’t a culinary culture without it.There’s turtle, truffle, French onion, hot and sour, clam chowder, miso, pasta fazool just for starters.Key things chefs look for in great soups, aside from texture, are taste and creative garnishes that bring new dimensions to even the simplest bowl. Something that seems to be emerging is soups that had their heyday but have now been somewhat forgotten.So like Légumes oubliés why not potages oubliés.Fallen into disuse, outdated or totally forgotten, some ancient vegetables are emerging from the ground to find the market stalls and casseroles of great chefs.Heirloom vegetables have come back into fashion in recent years. This is also a thrifty way to root to stem gastronomy.
Eating a zero-waste diet just requires a bit of invention – coming up with delicious dishes made with whatever you have to hand, such as this vichyssoise, which is less a recipe than a guide.If we want to save food from being wasted, it is imperative that we learn at least in part to cook without strict recipes, inventing delicious dishes from leftovers and past-its-best produce.We need to embrace our inner chef, cook what we love and come up with delicious dishes made with whatever we have to hand. Keep it simple and you can’t go far wrong. Most ingredients go well together in simple combinations, even if unexpected: some of my favourite partnerships I discovered through experimentation, such as carrot and orange, mushroom and vanilla, and parsnip and curry.Growing up,as a child Vichyssoise was my favourite kind of soup.I have been experimenting with some new and unexpected twists on this classic "Forgotten"vegetable soup.
It all started the other day, when I went to the local shop to buy a few things and came face to face with a beautiful display of chubby and particularly fragrant leeks, which happened to be sitting right next to a pile of equally plump cauliflowers.Of course, that gave me an idea! Why not make Vichyssoise using cauliflower instead of potatoes? Why I’d never thought of it before then is beyond me. These two veggies are totally meant to be together.I really could not be happier with how it turned out.Thick, creamy, with loads of flavour and texture. Better still, enough left for the following days lunch and maybe the next day too .And just like the classic, this Cauliflower Vichyssoise twist is just as tasty and delicious, regardless of whether you choose to serve it hot or chilled.

Cauliflower Vichysoisse

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

7 cups chopped leeks, white part only (about 3 large)

7 cups chopped cauliflower florets , (about 1 large)

2 cups vegetable broth

2 cups water

1/4 cup vermouth (optional)

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 cup almond milk , or other non-dairy milk of your choice

1 tsp salt

½ tsp ground black pepper

½ tsp onion powder

Additional milk to thin soup, if served cold

Extra-virgin olive oil and finely chopped leek leaves to garnish, if desired

Heat the olive oil in a large pan set over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, leeks, salt and pepper; cook until the onions and leeks are soft and fragrant and  become translucent, about 5 minutes.

Add the cauliflower, vegetable broth, water, vermouth (if using), Dijon mustard and onion powder; stir to combine, increase the heat and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until the cauliflower is really tender and slightly overcooked, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Reduce to a smooth puree with the help of a stick blender - alternately, you could also use a food processor or blender) and then add the milk and stir until it's completely incorporated.

This soup can be eaten hot or cold. If you choose to eat it hot, you can serve it immediately. If you choose to serve it cold, chill it for at least 24 hours and then add more milk, enough to get the desired consistency - about 1 cup should do the trick.

Garnish with a few drops of extra-virgin olive oil and a pinch of finely chopped leek leaves, if desired.

My second foray was introducing a fruit into vichyssoise.I opted for some baby pears and partnered them with my favourite Spanish blue cheese, Cabrales.What made this particular vichyssoise so good? The quality of the ingredients and a balanced complexity.There was the texture of the potato, the brightness of the leeks and a sweet fruity finish provided by the pears. 

Vichysoisse of pear and cabrales cheese (photo at top)

4 leeks, white stalk only, keep a few strips of green stalk for decoration.

3 pears (conference pears are best)

2 potatoes

1 onion

Knob of butter

150 ml. cooking cream, it has less fat!

extra virgin olive oil

salt

chives

Cabrales cheese

For the poultry stock:

1 carrot

the green part of the leeks

1 1/2 l. of chicken stock

salt

First prepare the broth, put the carrot, the green part of the leeks and the chicken stock in a saucepan.

add salt and cook for 20-25 minutes.

Strain and set aside.

Clean the leeks.

Chop the leek, onion, pear (without skin and pips) and fry it in a pan with the butter and splash of oil.

Add the chopped peeled potatoes and sauté over low heat.

Season.

It is important that it does not brown.

Pour in the stock and continue to cook for 12-15 minutes.

Blend the soup with a blender and strain finely.

Add the cream while mixing well with a spoon.

Let the soup cool completely and put it in the refrigerator to chill well.

Just before serving, put some pieces of cabrales cheese as "bits".

Garnish with some very fine sprigs of green leek leaves.

Enjoy.....