Tuesday, 24 December 2013
So ho Casa Rosada So Christmas
Winter has well set in.Gale force winds and rain are abundantly lashing the Iberian Peninsula promising us not a white Christmas but a wet grey one.This is not the weather to invite cold salads but I thought I would keep a little bit of summer alive by keeping the barbecued tradition fired up and bringing a little warmth to our Christmas day starter with a grilled octopus salad.
Here in Portugal there a few traditional Christmas dishes.By tradition, most Catholics don´t eat meat on Christmas eve. Instead they have Codfish and Octopus dishes. Octopus is traditional in northern regions while Bacalhau is nationwide.
Well get your tentacles around this.A recent guest left behind in their room, two issues of Soho House courtesy magazines “Cookhouse” and “Tonic.”Thumbing through as I always do keeping my eyes peeled I found a recipe that spoke to me big time but sans inspirational picture, I had no idea how it should turn out,but it had definite potential for Casa Rosada.The recipe originates from Soho House West Hollywood´s chef Michael Mahony so I thought I better check the ingredients listing to ensure it would work in the Algarve.
The first taste test came up trumps and translated beautifully into Algarvian terms and on the plate it certainly dressed to impress.The flame red Catalan romesco played with the rich syrupy brown hues of balsamic, and my innovation of a citrus balsamic reduction which I had kept in my memory from a dinner we had at Amore Vero in Tavira during the summer.Flavours abounded,even the ones I had doubts about.Individual flavours shone through.
Grilled octopus with Romesco sauce,wild rocket salad
and citrus balsamic reduction
3 dried nõra or choricero peppers
I red capsicum or bell pepper
I Roma (plum tomato)
5 cloves garlic
1 cup / 250 ml extra virgin olive oil
1x!nch /3 cm thick slice of day old bread
1/4 cup/35g hazelnuts
1/4 cup 75 ml sherry vinegar
lemon for squeezing
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Re-hydrate the nõra peppers in boiling water,having cleaned out as many seeds as possible.
Roast the red pepper in a roasting tray with the tomato and cloves of garlic until the skin of the pepper is charred.Put in a sealed plastic bag until cool then remove the skin.When the tomato is cool deseed and remove the skin.
Purée the pepper, tomato, nõra peppers and garlic.Pulse slowly, gradually adding the oil until smooth.Tear the bread into pieces then add to the mixture along with the hazelnuts.Purée again.Season and add the vinegar and squeeze of lemon.Add one teaspoon cayenne pepper.Adjust the seasoning.
1 raw octopus,around 900g /2lb
I bottle white wine
1/2 cup /50g black peppercorns
1 tablespoon tomato puree
zest of 1 orange
Heat a large pan with a little oil.Bring it to smoking point,then sear the octopus on both sides until it turns a rich red color.Once red on both sides,add the wine,peppercorns,tomato paste and orange zest.Braise until tender,about one hour. Allow the octopus to cool fully.Slice into pieces, removing the eyes and beak and mushy parts within the head,(if not removed already) making sure you keep the tentacles intact.
Marinate the octopus pieces in half the Romesco sauce (recipe above)overnight if possible.Keep the rest of the sauce for serving.
Balsamic vinegar dressing
1 clove of garlic,minced
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/2 cup /125 ml balsamic vinegard
11/2 cups 575ml extra virgin olive oil
Flor de sal and cracked black pepper
lemon for squeezingCombine the shallot,garlic and mustard.Add the vinegar and whisk in the oil.Season to taste with cracked black pepper and salt and finish with squeeze of lemon.
Citrus Balsamic reduction
2 cups /500ml balsamic vinegar
1/2 lemon juiced
1/2 small orange juicedMix the vinegar and lemon juice then reduce by half over a low flame.Be careful not to over reduce or scorch the vinegar
For the salad
Marinated octopus pieces
1 orange,zest julienned juiced
4 or 5 handfuls of wild rocket
remaining romesco sauce
citrus balsamic reduction
balsamic dressingPlace the marinated octopus pieces on the barbecue or griddle pan.Char the octopus pieces until heated through,being careful not to overcook or burn the smaller part of the tentacles.Remove from the heat. Pour the orange juice over the octopus and allow to rest.
Toss the rocket and zest in a bowl.Season with salt and pepper and dress lighty with balsamic dressing.Toss again.Slice each octopus part into 3 - 4 pieces and toss with the salad.
On 8 serving plate,spread small amount of romesco on the bottom along with a small amount of citrus balsamic reduction.Place tossed salad over the romesco and balsamic allowing a little of each to be seen.make sure to layer all the ingredients so every little bite has everything in it.