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Gaeng-rawaeng, curried away

Whole chicken thighs submerged in a deeply savoury golden curry redolent with spices. When the dish arrives on the table, flanked by impossibly flaky flatbread for sopping, you've got to be all in, tearing the juicy meat apart and swiping the bread through the rich and spicy sauce, table manners be damned. Thai food should be fiery but not burn you, and this dish demonstrates just that: A mix of green Thai chiles, serranos, and jalapeños yields just the right balance of heat. It is so delicious that if you make it at home to share, be warned: You'll be fighting for that last drop of curry sauce. If you ask most fans of Thai food in the West what their favorite curries are, they’ll probably rattle off a list pretty quickly—red, yellow, green, massaman, panang—because they’re so ubiquitous that they’ve become as familiar as pho or sushi. However, for many people, they also happen to be the only curries they know, because they’re the only ones offered by most Thai restaurants. T

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