How pickle and chilli came to be piccalilli

A common pairing of corned beef and piccalilli in a bap

Piccalilli, or mustard pickle, is a British interpretation of South Asian pickles, a relish of chopped and pickled vegetables and spices.It has a very distinct look due to its slightly spicy, tangy mustard sauce.This is a recipe that grandmothers have made for many years.Perhaps due to its international influences and many variations in former English and Dutch colonies, this yellow dollop of veggies and spices is a must for buffet tables, plates of cooked ham, cold beef, and the famous ploughman's lunch. It's easy to make and will keep for several months in sealed jars.

The florid name of this mixture of cauliflower florets, gherkins,and pearl onions preserved in a mustardy vinegar sauce coloured with turmeric (or nowadays, unless artesan, more commonly with commercial yellow food colouring) suggests an Italian origin, but in fact both the term and the product are 100 per cent British.The word is based on pickle, possibly blended with chilli, and may have originated as a trade name.It is first mentioned in Elizabeth Raffald´s "Experienced English Housekeeper" (1769),where it is also referred to as Indian pickle. In the eighteenth century the word was often spelt piccalillo and Hannah Glasse even called it pacolilla.

Simple Piccalilli

500g cauliflower, cut into small florets
200g courgette, cut into small chunks
200g shallots, peeled and cut into small chunks or pearl onions, peeled and left whole or halved
600ml malt vinegar
3 tbsp English mustard powder
1 tbsp coriander seeds
2 tbsp black or yellow mustard seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp turmeric
4 tbsp plain flour
200g caster sugar
2 bay leaves

Put the vegetables in a bowl and toss with 2 tbsp sea salt. Leave, covered at room temperature, for 4 hrs. Drain the veg and wash well under cold water. Drain well. Put 100ml of the vinegar in a bowl with the mustard powder, coriander seeds, mustard seeds, cumin, turmeric and flour. Mix well to make a paste.Heat the remaining 500ml vinegar, sugar, bay leaves and a pinch of salt until the sugar dissolves, then pour in the mustard vinegar mix, simmering and stirring for 5 mins until the mixture thickens. Fold in the drained veg, heat for 1 min taking the edge off the veg, but still retaining a bite, then remove from the heat, and pack into three 500ml warm sterilised jars.If you have the willpower to resist, seal and leave in a cool dark spot for six weeks or up to three months before opening. Once open, keep in the fridge and use within four weeks.